Becthtold Vineyard's Cinsault vine.

I don’t get too hung up on wine and food pairings. 

I say go with the flow, especially during the holidays. Celebrate! Drink what you like with what you like to eat. 

But … and there’s always a but … the right wine can turn ordinary meals into extraordinary experiences. 

So, if you could use a helpful suggestion or two, I have some thoughts and enlisted help from some of my trusted co-workers at the Lodi Wine Visitor Center. I hope these suggestions add some pop to your holiday meals and get togethers. 

I’m in total agreement with Anna Delgado of the LWVC and Lodi Winegrape Commission when she says Cinsault (sin-so) is one of her go-to holiday wines. 

“Cinsault, because it’s light and pairs with everything,” she said. “Also, it’s a conversation piece because of the vineyard.” 

Cinsault is a French red varietal popular as a rosè in Provance and as a blending partner with Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre in the Rhone Valley. It’s the fourth-most planted wine grape in France and is especially important in the Languedoc-Rousillon. Cinsault is a dry, light-bodied, fruit-driven wine with medium acidity and low tannin, making it an ideal partner with an array of food such as turkey and stuffing, charcuterie, Mediterranean dishes, cheese, oysters and shellfish, roasted meat, and its classic partner – escargot and French baguette. Generally, the aromas and flavors convey cranberry, strawberry, cherry, raspberry, roses, and pie crust. 

Those are good talking points, but how’s this for a conversation starter? Lodi is home of the oldest Cinsault vineyard in the world, the Bechthold Vineyard planted in 1886 by Joseph Spenker, whose descendants own and operate Jessie’s Grove Winery in Lodi. 

If Cinsault sounds like a winner, about a dozen wineries source the 25-acre Bechthold Vineyard, including Michael David Winery, which manages the vineyard; Marchelle Wines, Turley Vineyards, Birichino, Sandlands, Kareen, Markus Wine Co., McCay Cellars, Monte Rio, Kleinlerer, Two Shepherds, and Onesta. 

Bechthold isn’t the only Cinsault vineyard in Lodi. Excellent examples from other Cinsault vineyards in Lodi include Intercoastal Vineyards, Perlegos Family Wine Co., and Iconic Winery. 

Certified sommelier Paul Marsh, LWVC Manager and Wine Club Director, says another French varietal with its roots planted firmly in the Rhone is an ideal white wine to have on hand during the holidays – Viognier (vee-own-yay). 

“Viognier for squash and pumpkin,” he said. “Natural pairing.” 

Viognier is noted for its complex aromatics and flavors. The wine, especially if it has spent time in oak, can take on the richness and fullness of Chardonnay with creamy aromas of vanilla, spices, cloves – perfect with squash and pumpkin. Viognier is medium-bodied with medium-minus acidity and tastes of stone fruit. Aside from squash and pumpkin, the variety goes well with roast chicken, curry or Thai cuisine. 

There is some excellent Viognier grown and made in Lodi from Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards, Peirano Estate Vineyards, Berghold Vineyard & Wines, Drava Wines, Goodmills Family Winery, M2 Wines, McCay Cellars, Peltier Winery and Vineyards, Pondl Winery, Intercoastal Vineyards, and Ripken Vineyards and Winery. 

Proving variety is the spice of life, LWVC Tasting Room Associate Susanna La Viola, goes in a different direction when pairing wine with her holiday meals. When it comes to a Thanksgiving feast, the native of Italy and Italian language instructor at San Joaquin Delta College, says full-bodied reds are the way to go. 

“I’m not a turkey dinner aficionado,” she said. “The meal is too bland for me. I would give it a flavor punch with a Valpolicella Ripasso or Recioto.” 

Valpolicella is a blend of Molinara, Corvina and Rondinella produced in the Veneto region of Italy. Valpolicella Ripasso is made by leaving Valpolicella wine in contact with the leftover partially dried skins from Amarone or Recioto production. Recioto is the sweet version of Amarone made from dried grapes. These wines provide punch to any meal. 

Though I’m not aware of Valpolicella Ripasso or Recioto in Lodi, I remember the Lucas Winery made a delicious Ripasso from dried Zinfandel grapes. LangeTwins Winery crafts a suite of full-bodied Italian reds that stand out, including Montepulciano, Barbera, Nero D’Avola, and Teroldego. Heritage Oak’s Sangiovese and Charbono, Oak Farm Vineyards’ Sangiovese, Drava Wine’s Montepulciano, and Intercoastal Vineyards’ Nero D’Avola and Teroldego are nice choices. 

Lodi has wines for any holiday occasion. Cheers to you and yours! 

Bob Highfill has earned the Certified Specialist of Wine certificate from the Society of Wine Educators and the Level 3 certificate from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), and he will take you on a journey to meet the growers and winemakers who make Lodi such a special place. Please share your article suggestions and your tales from Lodi wine country at info@stocktonia.org.