Rodgers and Hammerstein.
Peanut butter and jelly.
Bert and Ernie.
It’s kind of hard to imagine one without the other. These classic combinations are greater than the sum of their parts. The same is true in winemaking. Blending can create a wine greater than the sum of its parts. Winemakers strive for balance and sometimes that goal is best achieved when a dash of this or that can make the final product sing. The iconic Harney Lane Winery in Lodi recently provided insight into the art of blending with a workshop in which participants tasted three singe-variety wines and from them created their own blend to take home.
Harney Lane’s Henry Ranch Primitivo, Henry Ranch Petit Sirah, and their flagship Lizzie James Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel, all from the 2023 vintage, were the single varietals presented in the workshop.
Harney Lane’s owner, grower and winemaker Kyle Lerner described each single varietal wine, then participants evaluated them to get an idea of what each would contribute in a blend.
“Winemaking is much an art as it is science,” Lerner said.
The Henry Ranch Primitivo, a variety closely related to zinfandel, appeared bright and fresh with medium-plus color intensity. Dark fruits such as black raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and a touch of vanilla were evident on the nose and palate.
The Lizzie James Old Vine Zinfandel aged in French oak longer than the primitivo to contribute more spice notes and vanilla on the nose and palate. Dark, plush, velvety, and delicious blue fruits with medium tannin. This storied vineyard planted in 1904 produces deep, dark, concentrated fruit that creates an elegant expression of Lodi old vine zin.
The Henry Ranch Petit Sirah had the deepest color and the most tannin of the three, which is to be expected from this variety: Deep, dark, intense color; black fruits; grippy tannin; big structure. The wine ages in dark toasted American oak barrels to match the level of fruit and tannin. Each wine is a key player in Harney Lane’s portfolio of estate-grown, estate-crafted wines. Harney Lane specializes in single-vintage, single-varietal, single-vineyard wines, but blending is afoot. Lerner fractionally blends wines of the same variety from the same vineyard and vintage from different oak barrels. If the wine label says chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon or zinfandel, for instance, at least 85 percent of the wine must be that variety. The remaining 15 percent can be another variety. The Harney Lane Henry Ranch Zinfandel, a staple offering, has about 5 percent petit sirah depending on the vintage, and is the only varietal “blend” in the portfolio, though it’s correctly labeled zinfandel.
The equipment needed to concoct our creations was provided and we were instructed to use as much or as little of the three wines.
I enjoy the fruit-forward characteristics of Harney Lane’s Henry Ranch and Lizzie James Old Vine zinfandels on their own. But for this exercise, I thought it would be fun to tinker a bit and add a little structure. After a couple tries, using a pipette and graduated cylinder, I took home a 375 ml bottle of 40 percent Henry Ranch Zinfandel, and 30 percent each of Henry Ranch Petit Sirah and Lizzie James Old Vine Zinfandel.
“Bob’s Blend” had medium color intensity, more floral notes than I thought it would have, a bouquet of blueberries and dark cherries, lifted by a decent amount of acid, and a sturdy structure.
Harney Lane Winery is a family-owned business. Kirsten Elizabeth Lerner, Jorja and Kyle Lerner’s daughter and granddaughter of founders Kathy and the late George Mettler, manages the wine club and represents the sixth generation. Her brother, Ian James Lerner, practically grew up at the winery and has embarked on a career in business. The family has resided on Harney Lane for more than 100 years and has farmed in Lodi for more than a century.
They take great pride in who they are and what they do and enjoy nothing more than sharing their bounty with their guests in their beautiful tasting room and outdoor spaces.
Note: The blending workshop at Harney Lane speaks to Lodi’s incredible approachability. Several wineries offer wine education experiences. For instance, the Lodi Wine Visitor Center has launched Sommelier Boot Camps every other Friday evening. Keep an eye out for opportunities to learn more about wine in general and Lodi in particular. Check out Lodiwine.com, winery web sites, or contact them directly. Get on some email lists, so you don’t miss a chance to learn and have fun.
Harney Lane Winery
910 E. Harney Ln.
Lodi, CA 95242
Phone: 209-365-1900 Website: harneylane.com
Hours: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily